| Author | Post |
|---|
Dulciaddict
Approved
| Joined: | Mon Jan 1st, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 12 |
| Instrument Interest: | Clawhammer Banjo, Bluegrass Banjo, Dulcimer, Other |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jan 5th, 2007 05:34 am |
|
Deleted as a duplicate
Last edited on Fri Jan 5th, 2007 05:42 am by Dulciaddict
|
Dulciaddict
Approved
| Joined: | Mon Jan 1st, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 12 |
| Instrument Interest: | Clawhammer Banjo, Bluegrass Banjo, Dulcimer, Other |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jan 5th, 2007 05:40 am |
|
Sorry for the delay, had to make a trip to Texas.
Regard adjustable 6 string chromatic, not something you would do on the fly
That particular instrument had the tail slotted so strings could be move to
set it up as a 6 individual strings like a guitar. same bridge and nut used
just required additional notches. To really make it right a couple string
changes would help as well.
#2 the Long "V" shape you mention is nothing more than good, book matching
of the wood.
#3 Bridges are the easy part of building, I use to get elaborate with thumb screw
type lifters; but I have instruments that have been strung up 7 years and the
set up (string height) has not changed. So now I keep them simple.
Having said that, that goes out the window if talking about hide type banjo
heads. They can change from day to day.
#4 as for my shop, nothing more than the front 8' - 9' feet of a 12" wide garage.
Regard the question about using the rolled veneer, having not used it, I can't
really say, I take it you are talking about building something like an open back
tack head style?
If I were going to try something like that I would use multiple thin strips of wood bent around a form and maybe cover it with the veneer for appearance.
I would go some where between a 1/4" to 3/8" total thickness.
I do feel confident in saying a house hold iron will get hot enough to use on the
veneer
Wendell
|
Dulciaddict
Approved
| Joined: | Mon Jan 1st, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 12 |
| Instrument Interest: | Clawhammer Banjo, Bluegrass Banjo, Dulcimer, Other |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jan 5th, 2007 05:53 am |
|
HowlinHobbit wrote: Heya Dulciaddict,
Is the body on the "Easy-Jo" a roto-tom or some sort of practice drum? It has a very interesting look and also looks pretty easy to build.
Howlin' Hobbit Got Uke?
Howlin's MySpace site, ezFolk site, UkeLand site and blog
Snake Suspenderz Hot Jass, Hokum and Novelty Music... with a bite!
Yes the easy'jo can be made in a week end, providing you have all the parts available.
It is simply a "Remo" drum practice pad. Some holes cut to allow the head freedom to vibrate. The head tension is fully adjustable. I shopped on ebay for mine, and went with the 8" head.
The sound -- any where from gross to pretty good, all depends on the balance of head tension, tuning and string tension.
I have plans drawn for building it, if interested drop me an email so I will have a address to email you the drawings.
Wendell
Wendell
|
Philj200
Approved
| Joined: | Thu Jun 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | New York USA |
| Posts: | 1240 |
| Instrument Interest: | Clawhammer Banjo, Bluegrass Banjo, Guitar, Harmonica, Dulcimer, Mandolin, Fiddle, Autoharp |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jan 5th, 2007 01:03 pm |
|
Wendell, Thanks for the concise assistance.
I take it you are talking about building something like an open back
tack head style?
--Exactly. If my skills match my ambition, it will have a scooped neck, a fiddlehead shape (maybe) and nylon strings.
If I were going to try something like that I would use multiple thin strips of wood bent around a form
--How thin? 3/8"? 1/4"? 5/8" might be too thick to bent? This would be quite strong even if made of pine. Assume the grain would have to offset as in plywood. But would a 90-degree angle be necessary. Concerned that the wood would crack.
If I were to go this route, that I would need a sturdier form than a cookie tin. If I were going to do this a business, I would consider making a cast-cement form. I'll have t think on what I'll use.
and maybe cover it with the veneer for appearance.
--Might not be necessary as that point. Good stain, good oil rub. (Gun oil maybe) The skin and the tacks would cover a fair amount of the rim.
I would go some where between a 1/4" to 3/8" total thickness.
--Thickness of the individual veneers going into the rim I assume?
I do feel confident in saying a house hold iron will get hot enough to use on the
veneer
--Worth a try. Doing a jigsaw puzzle with little pieces and whatever clamps I had was no picnic. By the way, ignoring the iron-on adhisive and using Titbound seems to work as well.
Regards,
Phil
____________________
My MP3 Section: http://ezfolk.com/audio/bands/1143/
My Myspace area: http://myspace.com/philj200
|
Dulciaddict
Approved
| Joined: | Mon Jan 1st, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 12 |
| Instrument Interest: | Clawhammer Banjo, Bluegrass Banjo, Dulcimer, Other |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Sat Jan 6th, 2007 01:45 am |
|
Phil,
Multiple strips, of 1/16" - 1/10" , Enough layers to produce
a 1-4" to 3/8" thick ring.
Ends sanded thin at over lap, like a shaker box.
And yes, even pine would be strong, but a hard wood should
give a nicer ring.
Would not fear cracking since the grain lines would all be off set
from one another.
For a mold you could glue up a square of 2X wood large enough
to cut out your circle and divide the waste into two or four pieces
to clamp around the form.
Wendell
|
HowlinHobbit
Approved
| Joined: | Tue Nov 16th, 2004 |
| Location: | Seattle, Washington USA |
| Posts: | 461 |
| Instrument Interest: | Ukulele, Guitar, Harmonica, Other |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Sat Jan 6th, 2007 07:49 am |
|
Dulciaddict wrote: I have plans drawn for building it, if interested drop me an email so I will have a address to email you the drawings.
Will do. Thanks!
HH
____________________
Howlin' Hobbit
Got Uke?
MySpace ezFolk UkeLand
|
Current time is 10:07 pm | Page:   1 2 |
|
|
|
